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Richard Nixon’s Chicken Casserole

02.07.2017 by J. Doe // 18 Comments

Perspective is a wonderful thing. It is not, however, something that teenagers have very much of.

I have only the vaguest recollection of the major news events of my early childhood. There were angry protests against Vietnam on college campuses, but I was barely out of diapers when most of them occurred, and only two years old when the National Guard fired on students at Kent State. Nixon resigned when I was five, but the things I remember seeing on TV that year have nothing to do with him: I watched Hee-Haw and Lawrence Welk with my grandfather, and the Wonderful World of Disney with the whole family – whoever happened to be around.

As I got older, more of the world seeped into my consciousness. I remember images of long lines waiting to fill their cars during the oil shock and boats overloaded with people fleeing someplace in Asia, and not understanding why either was happening or even important. Other things made far more of an impression on me: The filth and graffiti of New York City, full of garbage-strewn lots, smoke-scorched abandoned buildings, and a constant fear of random, violent crime.

Every year at school, I would make a new best friend to replace the one from the previous year, whose parents had fled the city for the safety of the suburbs. My mom taught me how to stay safe from muggers (be aware of your surroundings); at school, I learned history and math from worn-out textbooks, and how to stay safe during a Soviet nuclear attack from regular safety drills (duck and cover, kids!).

Sometimes suddenly, but mostly gradually, things changed. Glamour replaced hippies. The abandoned buildings gentrified in spite of slogans spray-painted on them (Die Yuppie Scum), and New York City stopped being unlivable and became, instead, unaffordable.

The Child did not live any of this, and does not understand that her life will follow the same arc. I remember the defining event of her early childhood, 9/11, but she was mercifully unaware of the horror of that day. She did not spend it making frantic phone calls and gasping for air. She watched Teletubbies and fell asleep as I cried about the world ending.

On Election Day, I asked her to sit with me, watching the returns, fully expecting to spend an evening sharing a historic moment: Mother and daughter, independent women, witnessing the election of our first female president.

I changed the channel repeatedly as a rather different story unfolded, then went to bed late and with a sense of unease.

Neither of us slept that night.

The Child went to school the next day, to a cocoon of sheltered, privileged children who suddenly experienced the shock of learning that the world that cannot always be predicted or controlled. The teachers, she told me, did not even bother trying to teach. Nobody cares about chemistry when the world is ending, and her history teacher couldn’t stop crying long enough to give her prepared lesson.

I would have thought a history teacher would have some perspective, but then, she is also young – too young to remember the Berlin Wall coming down, and thus, too young to remember the constant state of fear we lived in before that event. Too young to know that we roller-skated and played with Rubik’s cubes and marveled at a gadget called a Walkman in spite of it all.

The next night, I sat up with The Child until the small hours of morning, listening to her fears, offering her perspective, and knowing as I did that it is something that cannot be taught; it can only be learned through a lifetime of experiences.

The world did not end with Nixon, I explained, and by the time he died, he was sufficiently redeemed that I got a day off work.

This is different, she tells me, and I know that for her, it is.

I don’t often spend time thinking about Nixon, but he has been on my mind since that night in November. I watched All The President’s Men, a couple of times. And then, just before Inauguration Day, the LA Times ran an article about presidential recipes, including this one: Richard Nixon’s Chicken Casserole.

The recipe is variously credited to Nixon’s wife or one of his daughters, but the article’s author doesn’t quite know who or attempt to resolve the issue. I would hazard a guess that it’s a Nixon family recipe culled from the Nixon Presidential Library, but don’t quote me on that. I have a book of presidential recipes that includes other Nixon family recipes – Tricia’s wedding cake and Pat’s meat loaf, among others – but no casserole. That particular book also contains an entry from the Gerald Ford Presidential Library for a dish called Liver Deluxe, a recipe that probably explains why he was voted out after one term.

The Nixon casserole certainly is in the tradition of late-60s/early 70s food; with the exception of the onion and eggs, everything it contains has been processed and packaged. I’ll give credit where it is due, though – it is very easy to throw together on a weeknight, and doesn’t require any difficult to find ingredients, exotic cookware, or challenging techniques. If you can open a can, stir, and turn on an oven, you can cook a meal fit for a president.

If you’re looking askance at the ingredient list, well, you should be. The mayo plus cheese plus eggs make this possibly the fattiest thing I’ve ever eaten. One of the ways you will know it’s done is when an oil slick forms on a nicely browned surface. In spite of this, though, it is easy to make and – if your arteries are up to it – oddly delicious.

The Child enjoyed hers, though she picked out the broccoli – not because she dislikes broccoli, but because she dislikes overprocessed vegetables. When she returned her plate to the kitchen, she peeled herself a carrot, then sat on the couch, munching it and watching South Park.

I have never seen her do this, so I ask. A carrot?

I needed something to cancel out all that unhealthiness. How did you survive all that 1970s food?

I’m not really sure, I tell her. But just like the 1970s, somehow, we survived.

 

Richard Nixon's Chicken Casserole
 
Print
Author: Nixon Family Recipe, via the LA Times
Ingredients
  • 2 (10-ounce) packages frozen chopped broccoli
  • 1 (10.5 ounce) can condensed cream of mushroom soup
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese
  • 2 tbsp chopped onion
  • 1 cup mayonnaise
  • 2 boneless chicken breasts (about ¾ pound), cooked and diced
Instructions
  1. Steam the broccoli until tender, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
  2. Heat the oven to 375 degrees.
  3. Combine the soup, eggs, cheese, onion, mayonnaise and chicken in a bowl.
  4. Place half of the broccoli in a 9-inch-square baking pan or casserole dish and pour half the soup mixture over the top. Layer the remaining broccoli over the top, then pour the rest of the soup mixture over it.
  5. Bake until golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // casserole, chicken, presidential recipes, vintage recipes

Bistro Chicken with Shallots

04.11.2016 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

When she was alive, my grandmother appeared to be behind her times, clinging to her old-fashioned ways of doing things; at home and by hand, she wrung every bit of useful life out of everything that passed through her possession. By current standards, she was a woman ahead of her time, who composted food waste, ate organic food she grew and canned herself, and wasted nothing, recycling and upcycling what she could, and passing along what she could no longer use to someone else, who could make use of it.

She taught me to darn socks, and to crochet lace to trim new curtains made from worn-out sheets; the yarn for the lace came from worn-out sweaters that she unraveled and wound into balls. There was no reason to use something new when you had something perfectly good that could get a job done, which is why I have memories of using a washboard and wringing out wet laundry through the rollers of her tub washer, then running with the dog between lines of laundry hung out to dry in the backyard. Her one concession to modern laundry was a dryer, that she only used during the winter, when clothes would freeze if left outside.

Some of the old technology she preferred, for the simple reason that it did its job better than any modern replacement could. Her cast iron skillet was one of these things; she picked it up for some insignificant sum at a yard sale, and used it for everything, and when she died, I asked if I could have it, and when the estate valued it at similarly insignificant sum, it was given to me.

Along with her pan, I inherited her values: using things as long as they are usable, and for the most part, this works quite well, being an economical approach to living. Modern manufacturing, though, means that it is often not economical to repair things, so using them as long as possible sometimes means using what you can of something and trying not to miss what doesn’t work any more. Our microwave died, feature by feature: the digital display stopped working, but the oven clock could be used for timekeeping; the glass plate was dropped and broke, but a regular plate placed into worked just as well.

The Child grew frustrated, and wanted to replace the microwave with one that had a glass plate and working display, but I held firm: A penny saved is a penny earned, after all. The microwave still served its primary purpose, reheating leftovers and popping popcorn – there was no real need to replace it.

And I was right about this, right up until the moment I wasn’t, one Sunday evening when I popped some mac and cheese into the microwave and pressed the button, ignoring the odd noise it made until I noticed the aggressive odor of something burning, something that was definitely not my late-night snack.

I turned off the microwave, which is built in, and learned some useful things. A child who thinks their house may be on fire can locate and evacuate four pets at a remarkable speed, even allowing time to call the fire department, who, if you’re lucky, will arrive at your home at a remarkable speed and, if you’re luckier, maneuver their hook and ladder onto a driveway shared by four houses without driving it across your front lawn the way every other neighborhood visitor does.

Of course, the lawn was not my concern when they arrived, it was the possibility that a fire was right now smouldering in a wall behind the microwave that I could not remove from its housing. The firemen graciously ignored the barking dogs in the yard and agreed that they would also sleep better knowing that whatever smoking was not going to erupt into an inferno later that evening, and carefully but quickly disassembled the microwave and removed it from the kitchen.

Where the microwave once was, there was now an empty cabinet, which is a nice thing to have, but since it neither reheats leftovers nor pops popcorn, I headed out a few days later to acquire a new microwave at one of the large home supply stores. I brought the measurements and the old microwave’s manual, and the salesperson informed me that getting something the right size would be a special order, which translates as: You are going to be without a microwave for three weeks.

As it happens, I was going to be without a microwave for longer than that, because when it finally arrived at the appointed time, it was entirely the wrong size.

This sounds like like a first world problem, and of course, it is, but the reality is that I live in the first world and it is a problem. I grew up without a microwave or, for that matter, a dishwasher, yet it has been many years since I lived without either of these conveniences, and my life is structured around having them, not cleaning the many extra dishes that must be washed when you cannot simply reheat food in the bowl from which you plan to eat it.

My grandmother could have had a microwave, and a dishwasher, if she’d wanted, but she didn’t want them and got along perfectly well without them for some ninety years, but that knowledge does not help me in my current predicament. What does help is this: Some evenings, I pull out my grandmother’s cast iron pan, and cook dinner in it. I marvel at its lightness – it is much lighter than cast iron pans you could purchase today – and at its perfect nonstick finish, the end result of years and decades of seasoning. It is a pan that could not be made in any factory, and that requires very little in the way of cleanup.

Mostly I use it for the kind of simple things she would have made, grilled cheese and eggs, but sometimes I get a little fancy. One evening I pulled out my copy of Patricia Wells’ Bistro Cooking, and gave her recipe for chicken with shallots a try. I loved the recipe’s utter simplicity, involving only one pan that everything is added to as the recipe progresses. The shallots are left whole, and acquire a nice sweetness as they simmer at the bottom of the pan, beneath the chicken. The shallots, tomato, and garlic cook together into a nice sauce, that can be mopped up with some nice crusty bread, if you have it, or poured over some rice or noodles, if you prefer.

I made some minor changes to the recipe, using canned tomatoes since I didn’t have fresh ones on hand, and omitting the flaming brandy step, because I’m not sure that my kitchen or my nerves are quite ready to have me playing with more fire at dinnertime.

My grandmother never went to France – in fact, she never rode on an airplane – though it’s always possible she watched Julia Child or attempted some French recipe she found in the local newspaper. But she would have been pleased that her old pan was used to cook it, and the next day, to reheat the leftovers, too.

Bistro Chicken with Shallots

Bistro Chicken with Shallots
 
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Author: adapted from Patricia Wells, Bistro Cooking
Ingredients
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 3 lbs chicken pieces, skin-on and bone-in
  • 2 cups shallots, peeled and left whole
  • 3 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
  • 1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
  • cooked rice or buttered noodles for serving
Instructions
  1. Heat a heavy skillet over high heat, and add the oil and butter. Season the chicken liberally with salt and pepper, and when the oil in the pan in shimmering, add chicken pieces and brown on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Be careful not to crowd the chicken; you may need to work in batches.
  2. Reduce the heat to medium-high, and add the shallots and garlic cloves to the pan, as well as any chicken set aside if you browned in batches. Cover the pan, and let the chicken simmer, shaking the pan from time to time, until the chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes.
  3. Add the tomatoes to the pan and simmer until the sauce is well blended, five to ten minutes.
  4. Serve the chicken on a bed of rice or noodles with plenty of the sauce spooned over.
Notes
If you feel brave, you can add cognac before adding the tomatoes. To do so, put 2 tbsp cognac into a small saucepan, and heat it for about 30 seconds over medium heat. Ignite with a match, then pour over the chicken. Continue with the remaining recipe steps.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // chicken, meat

Chicken with Maple-Mustard Glaze

12.08.2015 by J. Doe // Leave a Comment

My father is obsessed. This is his usual state; what varies from time to time is the object of his obsession. For a while, it was bread, and conversations centered on flour, yeast, and baking stones. Then he turned his attention to fermenting, and mastered kosher pickles so rapidly that his rabbi persuaded him to teach a pickling workshop at the Jewish community center, where he was billed as a local pickling expert, and attracted nearly 100 attendees.

Having conquered the pickle, he turned his attention to olives, announcing he intended to learn how to cure them. I replied, That sounds great – please send me some olives.

I was thinking, He’ll send me a jar of nice olives, and I’ll make a bowl of nice tapenade with them.

He was thinking, My daughter also wants to learn how to cure olives.

This is how, one Wednesday afternoon, I found myself opening a box filled with twenty pounds of fresh black olives.

I examined the unexpected treasure trove of lovely, plump little black olives, but learning to cure olives, or anything really, isn’t on my To Do list. I decided to simply eat them. Biting into one, I received my first and most important lesson in olive curing: If you don’t do it, olives aren’t edible.

This is why I spent part of a Sunday in December baking cookies, but not as many as I normally would, because I needed the rest of the day to weigh and measure olives, sea salt, and water into various containers, where they will soak together until the olives become, hopefully, edible.

In case you are wondering how many containers it takes to brine twenty unexpected pounds of olives, the answer is six: A cookie jar, three Tupperware juice pitchers, a French porcelain serving bowl, and a plastic Folgers coffee tub. Yes, I’m aware that I’m violating some Seattle code, making and drinking Folgers pre-ground coffee. But the coffee police haven’t come for me yet, and the big plastic tubs are awfully handy when large quantities of unexpected olives appear on one’s doorstep.

Like father, like daughter; he has his obsessions, I have mine. I have discovered maple syrup – not the stuff that comes in a squeeze bottle shaped like a lady, but the real stuff, that comes in a bottle with a tiny, useless handle on it.

The handle, I have learned, once served a purpose, and the syrup itself still serves many purposes, all of which I am determined to explore, and soon. I discovered this when I received a digital review copy of the Maple Syrup Cookbook, by Ken Haedrich. It’s a book I never would have picked up on my own, since I tend to view cookbooks focused on a single ingredient more as kitsch than cuisine. In this case, my preconceived notions were completely incorrect, much to my delight: Nothing about the recipes in this pretty book feels like a stretch, and I found myself attaching digital sticky notes to more than a dozen pages, as well as learning a little by reading the side notes.

For my first recipe, I intended to make the Maple Spice Cookies for a holiday cookie exchange, but The Child insisted I make my traditional Eggnog Cookies – It Isn’t Christmas Without Them, she said –  and I succumbed to her flattery. Instead, one evening when I had no particular plans for dinner, I made the simple roast chicken with a mustard-maple glaze. It isn’t fussy, and required no trips to the store.

It was lovely, with just a hint of sweetness from the maple syrup and a bit of bite from the mustard, lemon juice, and garlic. The flavors balance perfectly, and even The Child, who normally avoids any sort of mixing of sweet-and-savory on her dinner plate, pronounced it A Keeper.

The original recipe calls for the chicken to be grilled or broiled. I baked it, but felt it would have been better broiled, so I’ve included those directions. I used chicken thighs, rather than the cut-up chicken called for; use three or so pounds of chicken pieces, whichever sort you prefer, and adjust the cooking time accordingly. This would be wonderful cooked on a grill in summer.

I probably won’t take my obsession as far as my father might; you won’t likely read about me having a maple sugaring party or learning to tap trees. Then again, if the olives turn out, who knows?

 

Maple-Mustard Chicken

Chicken with Maple-Mustard Glaze
 
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Author: adapted from Ken Haedrich, The Maple Syrup Cookbook
Ingredients
  • 3lbs chicken pieces
  • ¼ cup pure maple syrup
  • 3 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • juice of ½ small lemon
  • 2 tsp soy sauce
  • 1 clove garlic, finely minced
  • ½ tsp ground pepper
Instructions
  1. Combine the maple syrup, mustard, lemon juice, soy sauce, garlic, and pepper in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, and cook for about a minute. Remove from heat.
  2. Rinse the chicken parts and pat dry. Brush each piece of chicken with some of the sauce, using about half, and place in a bowl. Refrigerate for 30-60 minutes.
  3. Broil the chicken about 6 inches from the heat, about 15 minutes on each side, basting with the remaining sauce from time to time. Total cooking time will depend on the size of the chicken pieces; be sure the meat is tender and juices run clear, or check for doneness with a thermometer.
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Categories // The Joy of Cooking Tags // chicken, maple syrup, meat, mustard

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